Covering 500 miles (800 kilometers) from Tokyo to Hiroshima, what’s become known as the Golden Route of Japanese tourism connects many of Japan’s most popular destinations. There’s Hakone, with its traditional inns and Mount Fuji views, the ancient capital of Kyoto and its collection of World Heritage Sites, and the ever-bustling city of Osaka, to name just a few highlights.
But, as more and more travelers are finding, there’s plenty of Japan to discover beyond the Golden Route, and it’s easier than ever to access thanks to Japan’s widespread rail and air network.
Once you’ve experienced Tokyo at its most modern, with Shibuya’s youthful trends or the high-end stores and Michelin dining of Ginza, you are only a short flight or high-speed shinkansen train from experiencing the many varied sides of Japan. You could begin in Hiroshima Prefecture—about 90 minutes from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport on one of ANA or JAL’s multiple daily flights, or less than 4 hours on the shinkansen from Tokyo Station—the perfect jumping off point to explore the less-visited Chugoku and Shikoku regions.
From top to bottom: Tottori – The Sand Museum Tottori Sand Dunes, Shimane – Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine, Yamaguchi – Motonosumi Shrine, Okayama – Inujima Shrine, Hiroshima – Sandankyo Gorge, Kagawa – Ritsurin Garden, Ehime – Dogo Onsen, Tokushima – whirlpools of the Naruto Strait, Kochi – Hirome food market. Connected via local train lines. Illustrated by Tatsuro Kiuchi
First steps off the Golden Route
At the westernmost end of the Golden Route, Hiroshima Prefecture is best known for attractions in and around Hiroshima City, such as the moving Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and the “floating” torii (symbolic gates) at Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima Island. The wider Chugoku region around Hiroshima, however, also offers opportunities to experience Japan’s great outdoors.
For starters, you could take a bus about 55 kilometers northwest of Hiroshima City for the Sandankyo Gorge, a lush stretch of river dotted with waterfalls and transparent emerald pools—ideal for riverside hikes, activities like kayaking, or just soaking up the tranquility. Or there’s the quaint town of Onomichi, 80 minutes east of Hiroshima City by local train, which as well as being a destination in its own right, is also the northern end of the Shimanami Kaido, a 70-kilometer cycling route that runs over the islet-studded Seto Inland Sea into Shikoku.
The Shimanami Kaido cycling route connects Hiroshima and Ehime prefectures, crisscrossing the Seto Inland Sea via a collection of scenic bridges. Photograph courtesy of Honshu-Shikoku Bridge Expressway Company Limited
Sandankyo Gorge is a lush stretch of river dotted with waterfalls and transparent emerald pools. Photograph courtesy of Hiroshima Tourism Association
Moving west from Hiroshima, using a mix of JR West’s Sanyo Shinkansen train, local JR lines, buses and rental cars, it’s possible to go even farther off the beaten path with a visit to Nagato in Yamaguchi Prefecture, home to picturesque terraced rice fields, a rugged coastline dotted with distinctive rock formations, and the photogenic Motonosumi Shrine, known for its winding tunnel of red torii gateways—similar to Kyoto’s famous Fushimi Inari Shrine—set on a bluff overlooking the ocean.
The torii gateways of Motonosumi Shrine in Yamaguchi Prefecture. Photograph courtesy of Motonosumi Shrine
Deeper into Chugoku
To the north of Hiroshima, the Chugoku region continues in the prefectures of Shimane and Tottori, which like Yamaguchi offer travelers the opportunity to wander roads less traveled.
In Shimane Prefecture, one highlight is the UNESCO-designated Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine, where close to one-third of the world’s silver is said to have been mined during the 16th century. Production here ended in the early 1900s, but travelers today can explore the old mine shafts, learn about the region’s mining heritage, and visit the well-preserved townscape of Omori, which flourished with the development of the mines.
At its peak, the Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine in Shimane Prefecture is said to have produced a third of the world’s silver. Photograph courtesy of Shimane Prefecture
Northeast along the coast, Tottori Prefecture then offers a very different experience with natural sand dunes stretching along 10 miles (16 kilometers) of shoreline, creating a Sahara-esque landscape where you can paraglide and sandboard, or check out art. For the latter, The Sand Museum Tottori Sand Dunes, is the only indoor facility in the world dedicated to sand sculptures, with exhibits replaced annually by teams of artists invited to Tottori from around the globe.
The Sand Museum Tottori Sand Dunes in Tottori Prefecture displays sand sculptures that change annually. Recent artworks include scenes from Napoleonic France. Photograph courtesy of The Sand Museum, Tottori Sand Dunes.
Then there’s Okayama Prefecture in southern Chugoku, a stop on the Sanyo Shinkansen train between Hiroshima and Osaka. Like Hiroshima, there are many reasons to linger in Okayama City—not least the magnificent Korakuen Garden—although you could also venture offshore to Inujima, a tiny island in the Seto Inland Sea known for its contemporary art venues. As part of the broader Inujima Art House Project and Setouchi Triennale, this scenic isle once known for its granite has seen several traditional houses turned into galleries and art installations.
The island of Inujima in Okayama Prefecture is dotted with pretty beaches. Photograph courtesy of Okayama Prefectural Tourism Federation
Exploring Shikoku
Once you’ve enjoyed Okayama, it’s only a short train ride across the Seto Inland Sea into Shikoku, the fourth largest of Japan’s main islands. After getting off the train at Takamatsu in Kagawa Prefecture, one option is to hop on a ferry for Naoshima and Teshima, two more of the Seto Inland Sea’s arty islands. Or you could stay in Takamatsu for Ritsurin Garden, a sprawling masterpiece of traditional Japanese landscaping.
Spread over 185 acres (75 hectares), Ritsurin in Kagawa Prefecture is one of Japan’s finest traditional gardens. Photograph courtesy of “Special Place of Scenic Beauty” Ritsurin Garden
Here, you’ll find cherry blossoms in spring and fiery foliage in autumn, while year-round there are teahouses to visit and a succession of scenic viewpoints to enjoy—the most distinctive being from atop the Fuji-shaped Hiraiho Hill, looking out over Ritsurin’s central pond with Mount Shiun serving as borrowed scenery in the distance.
Following the coast southeast from Takamatsu, it’s an hour by train to Tokushima Prefecture, home to the annual Awa Odori dance festival and the deep natural surrounds of the Iya Valley, but also the captivating whirlpools of the Naruto Strait. Up to 22 yards (20 meters) in diameter, these whirlpools are created when the central current merges with slower currents on the sides of the strait, something you can see up close on boat tours or through the glass-bottomed observation deck of the Onaruto Bridge.
The powerful whirlpools of the Naruto Strait in Tokushima Prefecture can be seen up close on boat tours or from above on the Onaruto Bridge. Photograph courtesy of Naruto City Uzushio Tourist Association
Wherever you go in Shikoku, you are never far from a good meal. That’s especially true at Hirome Market in Kochi Prefecture, in Shikoku’s far south, which is best reached by car or a combination of trains from Tokushima. Nicknamed “Kochi’s Kitchen,” the 60 or so small eateries here serve up a wide variety of dishes, from local classics like katsuo-no-tataki (bonito seared over piles of burning straw) to izakaya (bar-style) staples such as gyoza (dumplings) and deep-fried chicken. Best of all, you can eat at large communal tables where there’s a good chance of striking up a conversation with Kochi’s local people.
Bustling Hirome Market in Kochi Prefecture is a must-visit for foodies, with dozens of small restaurants serving up local specialties. Photograph courtesy of Kochi Visitors & Convention Association
Last, but not least, in the northwest of Shikoku is Ehime Prefecture, located at the southern end of the Shimanami Kaido cycling route, with an airport that connects to Tokyo. As the biggest city in Shikoku, Ehime’s Matsuyama offers great dining and historical sites, like the early 17th-century Matsuyama Castle, though it is best known for Dogo Onsen, one of the oldest hot-spring baths in the country. At the Dogo Onsen Honkan bathhouse, built in 1894 with the look of a wooden castle, you could take a soothing soak in a public bath before unwinding with green tea and sweets in a tatami mat relaxation room. It’s the perfect way to end an adventure in Chugoku and Shikoku.
The Dogo Onsen Honkan in Ehime Prefecture isn’t just one of Japan’s most historic bathhouses, it’s also said to be the inspiration for the bathhouse in the Oscar-winning animated film Spirited Away Photograph courtesy of Matsuyama City
Discover more sights and delights just a short trip from Tokyo here.